After an incredibly and unbelievably poor experience at The Rivington Grill in Shoreditch, it was a cross of excitement and trepidation that I felt before my visit to 32 Great Queen Street.
Based solely on a personal recommendation from the owners of Frith & Little in East Dean, East Sussex, I was pretty confident this would be a good dining experience.
Set in the shadow of the monolithic Grand Lodge on Great Queen Street, this unassuming and refreshingly basic restaurant and bar was the perfect balance between interesting buzz and activity and quiet seclusion, away from the tiresome bustle of Covent Garden.
Service was friendly and very well informed, and starting with quince prosecco, we set about making the tricky decision from the menu. An amazing selection of specials that would have tamed any meat-lovers desire were explained to us with great care, and all sounded enticing. However, it was the option of the beef rib, chips and bernaise sauce for two to share that determined our light starters and evening of meat lust ahead.
Starting with a curried pumpkin and buttermilk soup, I was impressed with the simplicity of flavours that made this soup a pleasure. My dining companion for the evening opted for smoked mackerel with horseradish and rhubarb – an inspired and delightfully fresh combination, only made more interesting by serving a whole large mackerel (topped and tailed) and kept intact, showing off fine colours and texture. A welcome change from flattened fillets.
The main event arrives and eyes out on stalks, we set about dividing up the meaty feast in front of us. Perfectly tender with an intensely peppery crust, these ribs were a labour of love. The bernaise sauce, light and fresh, complimented the texture and taste of the beef perfectly. Chips were chunky, wholesome and almost like roast potatoes – their crisp skins yielding to a fluffy and tasty potato flesh.
Whilst it was clear there was probably no room for desert, the beignets and creme Catalan were too good to resits. We split the dish and managed to find room for these perfectly crafted dough balls. Washing it all down with a light ale from the Isle of Wight, this was one meal that left us sated and looking enviously on as others had room to try the crown of duck. Next time.
Great Queen Street
32 Great Queen Street, London, WC2B 5AA
020 7242 0622
Posted on January 19, 2012
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